THE FOOTNOTES
Every print from Marking The Wild comes with its own trail story, this is yours.
Here you’ll find sketches, route details, reflections from the walk, and a few extra notes I couldn’t quite fit on paper.
Think of it as a companion to the artwork; a small way to step into the moment with me, and maybe take the journey for yourself.
Chee Dale Stepping Stones: The Stones Well-Trodden and Those Left Forgotten
The famous trail in this area is the Monsal Trail; a disused railway line repurposed for an elevated, steady journey through the Derbyshire countryside. A wonderful walk, but you would be doing yourself a disservice if you did not deviate to underneath the Monsal Trail and follow the banks of the River Wye. Pika (the dog) and I visited on a particularly hot day in May, with Spring in full bloom and the river holding some of the most beautiful scenes I've seen, with the Water Crowfoot and River Mosses reminding me of Sir John Everett Millais’ painting of ‘Ophelia’.
One moment you’re on a woodland trail, the next the world narrows into a limestone corridor where sound shifts, light refracts, and the river becomes the only direction that makes sense; guiding you to somewhere unknown. It feels like slipping through a doorway into somewhere that’s been quietly waiting.
The path itself keeps you alert as it bends, narrows, widens, and bends again, always leading you deeper. It’s a walk of contrasts, of stone, water, shadow, light, stillness and an ever present flowing current. In opposition to this fairytale setting, massive viaducts and arches loom above the water like half-forgotten relics, reminders of a time when industry pressed close to this wild realm. Then further on this route everything opens up, as you climb to Hargatewall (beware the cows), before circling back through Monk’s Dale; an adventurous steep-sided dry gorge whose footpath, in places, is practically non-existent (you have been warned) but in itself holds a subtle kind of intrigue.
This is not a place to hurry, but not a place to drift. It’s a place to follow onward and to notice the peace that follows you back home.
Waypoints Through The Wild
Note: This route feels long at 13.4km but I think it is worth it to savour the path less taken. However, you are of course able to create a loop that leaves the River Wye and returns to base using the Monsal Trail - a shorter but pleasant experience.
Start: Begin on the trail leading down toward the River Wye. The path becomes narrower and more textured as you approach the gorge. Follow the route upstream as it enters the limestone passage. Boardwalks appear where the rock face tightens, guiding you over uneven ground and keeping your feet clear of the river’s edge.
Roughly halfway along this river part of the route you’ll come to the Chee Dale Stepping stones (actually there are two sets of stepping stone stones). On a lucky day all the stones are nearly completely submerged making the trip across that little bit more magical - so ideally plan for a dry, clear day after rainfall if you can.
Continue beneath the all railway viaducts and take a moment to admire the echoing birdsong before turning a sharp right and up the track of Mosley Farm Hill. Enjoy some breathtaking and secret meadow walk between here and Tunstead. The next part can be tricky; before reaching Hargate there is a farm field which, when we visited, was home to extremely curious young cows. The path isn’t well signposted here, but whatever you do, despite what GPS might say, don’t go into the field with the cows! Unless you want to be chased and have to throw yourself and your dog over a dry stone wall. I think the farmer has diverted the path to the right hand side of the wall, and following this you pass between the wall and a small outhouse.
Finish: Passing through Hargate and across some more farm land, you come to the road, following it down to just before a carpark. Take the route on the right and slowly, cautiously, make your way through the forgotten world of Monk’s Dale after which you can make a stop at the Anglers Rest for a river side beverage before using the Monsal Trail to return to the carpark.
Sense The Scene
See: fairytale glens and limestone walls, ferns and moss in dappled shadow, viaduct arches framing the sky.
Hear: water rushing between rock faces, footsteps on boardwalks, your own echo under the arches.
Smell: damp stone, cool river air, mossy earth and the farmer fields.
Feel: weathered stepping stones, damp cliff walls, refreshing river water.
Taste: mineral air from the gorge, polliniferous wild meadow breezes, a much needed flash of strong espresso.
Practical Parts
Parking: Available at Millers Dale Car Park and nearby lay-bys.
Facilities: Toilets and Café in Millers Dale Car Park, but nothing directly at the gorge or onward walk. The Angler Rest pub sits close by.
Hazards: Slippery stones and boardwalks, narrow paths beside water, variable river levels after rain, low overhangs, and uneven terrain throughout the gorge. Be cautious of livestock in the surrounding walk.
Have you been here? What's Your Story
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