THE FOOTNOTES
Every print from Marking The Wild comes with its own trail story, this is yours.
Here you’ll find sketches, route details, reflections from the walk, and a few extra notes I couldn’t quite fit on paper.
Think of it as a companion to the artwork; a small way to step into the moment with me, and maybe take the journey for yourself.
Ynys Llanddwyn: The Unexpected Elsewhere
The first thing I remember is the sand. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
We arrived through woodland, the road winding between trees, the view completely obscured until you arrive at the car park. Then you step from the shelter of the dunes and suddenly everything opens. Vast stretches of pale sand glinting in the sun. It’s not something I was prepared for. A forest opening onto sand and sea creates something secluded, protected and unexpected.
Next it was the sky in every direction and shallow blue water calling our name. For a moment it feels less like Wales and more like a hidden corner of Mediterranean coastline. The fact it was one of the hottest days of the year probably helped. Thankfully the sea offered a simple solution. Rather than walking beside it, Pika (the dog) and I spent much of the journey wading through cool water while gentle waves lapping around our legs. Pika treated the whole experience as a game; charging bravely into the sea before retreating back to shore. Investigating washed up seaweed with great seriousness before gathering the confidence to do it all again. Occasionally inspecting a child’s sandcastle with curiosity, and thankfully leaving it intact. Watching her enjoy the place so completely made it impossible not to do the same.
Eventually the island came into view. Having done very little research, I hadn’t realised it was an island at all. We had arrived at low tide, allowing us to wander straight across to ancient buildings, lighthouses and traces of Celtic history breathing quietly amongst the landscape. The story of Saint Dwynwen lingers in the background, adding another layer to a place that already feels slightly removed from reality. The history is present, but not demanding so it doesn’t feel like a school trip (unless you want it to).
This is where I chose to paint. Another discovery that only unlocks at certain tides, somehow containing everything that came before it. The surprise of the beach, the joy of the sea, the feeling of finding somewhere hidden away. Looking at the artwork now, I don’t just see the island. I see everything that led me there.
By the time we turned back, the heat of the day was beginning to catch up with us. The woodland brought welcome shade and a chance to cool down. It felt like the final stage of a journey home, a gradual return to reality after spending a few hours somewhere else entirely. Like finishing a particularly good meal, I left feeling satisfied. Sun warmed, slightly tired, and already thinking about coming back.
Part of me wanted to keep this place to myself. But someone shared this place with me when I was selling my work at a market, and some discoveries are simply too good not to pass on.
Even if it means telling people about the sand.
Waypoints Through The Wild
NOTE: This route requires observation of the tides and can only be achieved during low tide. Please pay special attention when attempting this route, in particularly high tides the mainland can become momentarily inaccessible.
Start: Beginning at the Llanddwyn Beach Car Park the first thing to do is get yourselves to the beach by following the path south across the dunes.
Once at the beach head west along the shoreline, paddling through the sea line if you’re feeling brave. Head all the way along the beach heading west until you curve along the path leading to Ynys Llanddwyn island. Once on the tidal island stick to the left footpath and follow the undulating route along the east side.
Soon you reach the tip of the island walking past the Pilot’s Cottages and along the retaining wall (with care) to get a close up view of the small Twr Bach Lighthouse and distant views of Llŷn Peninsula National Landscape.
Return along the retaining wall and turn right, climbing up the steps to walk around the larger Llanddwyn Lighthouse.
When ready, return down the steps and follow the left path along the western path of the tidal island. Just before you reach St Dwynwen’s Cross take a look back to admire the view, before continuing along the path to take in the ruins of St Dwynwen's Church.
Return to the same path and continue the walk all the way along the west Side of the tidal island before reaching the mainland beach.
Finnish: From the beach head north via one of the first paths on your left, this turns into a more defined path hooking right through the woodland before arriving back at the car park.
Sense The Scene
See: Sand, more sand than you thought Wales was capable of, distant mountains and mythical structures both man-made and natural.
Hear: Waves whispering, the chatter of visitors carried across sand. The happy splashing of dogs who have decided this may be the greatest place on earth.
Smell: Salt, seaweed and warm coastal air. The earthy scent of woodland shade.
Feel: Sun on your skin, seawater around your legs, folklore weaved into the rocks.
Taste: Salt on sea air, inevitable sand on your lips, fresh pine, wild garlic and coconut-scented gorse.
Practical Parts
Parking: A large pay and display car park sits within Newborough Forest, providing easy access to both the woodland trails and Ynys Llanddwyn. Arrive early on warm weekends and school holidays, as this is one of North Wales' most popular coastal destinations.
Facilities: Public toilets, seasonal refreshments and visitor facilities can usually be found in the car park along with footshowers to wash the sand away. Once beyond the dunes and out on the island, facilities are few, so bring plenty of water, especially during hot weather.
Hazards: The route is generally straightforward, but tides should always be checked before setting out, as access to the island can become restricted when the sea returns. Large sections of the walk are exposed with very little shade, making sun protection and water particularly important during warmer months. On hot days, both humans and four-legged hiking companions may appreciate a paddle or two along the way.
Have you been here? What's Your Story
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